123 Day Cosplay Diary - Days 34 & 35 - Pattern bought... Now preparing for utter confusion... 

8/27/2013

3 Comments

 
Right, well I've finally bought the sewing pattern... According to the website, when buying a pattern that includes a coat, you should buy a size that is relative to your chest measurements, which for me was 39 inches. Therefore, I had to buy the size slightly above, which was 40 inches, which I imagine will suffice. So, it's been ordered... So I decided to do a little research on fitting... And my word was I left confused. Information was being thrown at me left, right and centre, with jargon in great abundance. 

Something I'm confused about, is fitting. How do you decide which sized pieces you're going to use and cut out, and what if some of them are different sizes, say - one is a 5 (random number) and one is a 6? I did find an article on this... but once again - information left, right and centre, jargon everywhere. So, if anyone can shed ome light on what you do when you've got your pattern, and need to decide on sizes (i.e. what measurements to take, how to use them, how to test that they're right etc.) then please leave a response in the comments!

So... that's about it for this post. Hopefully I can get my head around this before the pattern arrives or else I may never even get it started! XD
3 Comments
 


LadyDeTemps link
08/28/2013 1:34am

There's the long answer and the short answer. I think fitting is slightly different for blokes than ladies. But basically.
You measure your chest, waist and hips (widest part below waist).
You then compare with the chart on back of pattern (circle the corresponding measurements.)
Now for me that usually means 2 of my measurements fall into a size 16 the other into a size 14. So I go for size 14 (as then I can just take in the waist).
I suggest unless you are really confident to just fold all your pattern pieces up to the line that says (if your a 5 up to a 5 rather than cutting it off.)
Now what I do is pin your pattern pieces together where your seams would go. (You'll find you have 'half' a coat).
Like this
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/waistcoat-for-doctor-who-outfit-fitting.html
This is the point where you can make your adjustments. Take in the seams more to make theft more snug.
VERY IMPORTANT - Make sure the centre front and centre back of the pattern matches your front and back. You may need help at this point….or a mirror and arms like mr tickle.
Once you get your fit right. Use a pencil or marker pen to mark your new seam line or any darts you've put in…
Now you have a choice.
You can (1) use this to cut out a 'toile' - a mock up in a cheap fabric of your coat to check fit. Like this http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/doctor-who-outfit-fitting-jacket.html
I am now discovering how handy basting the seams when you fit is. Fabric reacts differently to paper.
You can then trim this down then take apart and use as a new pattern. (Being a cheapskate I use it as a lining material.)
(2) Just cut out your material and hope for the best.

Tip: I find tracing the pattern with tailors chalk then cutting easier than cutting with pattern pinned on…but its personal preference.

Its adventurous to do a jacket straight off so I say start with the waistcoat…it will give you the skills to fit the 'coat'.

Reply
~The Valeyard's Mime Army (Mod) link
08/28/2013 2:53am

This bit confused me a tad: "Now for me that usually means 2 of my measurements fall into a size 16 the other into a size 14. So I go for size 14 (as then I can just take in the waist)." - Surely you mean you go for a size 16? Because if you've got a smaller size and a larger size, then surely you'd go for the smaller size, then take the one that should be smaller in, rather than going from the smaller size for both? :S

Also, another question - because I want to change the neck and get rid of the collar, as well as extend the centre parts of the coat so they meet in the middle - how would I go about doing that? I can imagine changing the neckline and collar would be easy because you're taking stuff away, but changing the middle would be adding things... which is where I'm confuddled.

Reply
LadyD
08/28/2013 3:10am

lol! yep sorry that was a typo. I meant I'd choose a 16 but reduce waist to 14.

I'd pin fit it and see if you need to add more to side seams or cut out a little piece of paper attached to the centre front then redraw the curve.

The collar is easy...just don't cut the collar piece. Some of this is hard to explain when your not physically there. (Have you got anyone locally who can help at all?)
All I can say is trial and error. Don't be afraid to go with your gut feeling. The amount of times I've been confused by instructions so I've just experimented and either pinned or basted things in place to see if my 'idea' works and its been successful.
You may find if you make yourself a tailors dummy it helps. I made mine with this technique it only took a couple of hours with help from a friend.
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3633/paper-tape-dress-form
Now my fitting is so much easier. I put it on a hanger so I can fit things like jackets etc.

BTW. this may not be your jacket but it will give you a good idea of some of the processes involved in fitting.
http://sensibility.com/pattern/beatrixjacket.htm




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